Bike gears and shifting: how to choose and pedal at the right cadence

1. How gears work

A gear is a combination of front chainring and rear sprocket. A small chainring with a big sprocket gives an easy gear: you pedal lightly but advance little per pedal stroke. A big chainring with a small sprocket gives a hard gear: you travel far, but need more force. Shifting lets you keep the same effort in your legs whatever the gradient.

2. The right cadence

For most amateur cyclists, 80-95 revolutions per minute on the flat is a good reference, spinning more freely uphill (70-85). Pushing too hard at low cadence overloads the knees and tires the muscles sooner; a higher cadence shifts effort to your heart and lungs, which recover better.

Many bike computers show cadence: watch it for a few rides and try raising it gradually.

3. When and how to shift

Shift early, before the climb or corner, not when you're already struggling. While shifting, keep pedalling but ease the pressure on the pedals. Avoid cross-chaining (big chainring with the biggest sprocket or small chainring with the smallest): it wears the drivetrain faster and is noisy. Uphill use the small chainring and easy gears.

4. Choosing gears for your climbs

If you live in hilly country or want to ride mountain passes, choose a cassette with a big sprocket (32-34 teeth) and a compact crankset (50/34), or a single chainring on a gravel bike. An easier gear isn't a sign of weakness: it lets you reach the top without blowing up and enjoy it.

When changing parts, check compatibility with frame and rear derailleur: maximum capacity and chain length change.